Just a quick update for you – I’m obviously not very active here, but I have news for those of you that wan’t to follow my antics on a more regular basis; I have a Youtube Podcast!
I talk about my hobbies, which are knitting, folk costume, and of course reenactment. It also includes little snippets of my everyday life, such as apartment scale farming, hiking and the few travels that one can do in these times.
There will be themed episodes around for example Battle of Wisby or other events, about my folk costume, special items of clothing through the centuries and such, and maybe I’ll invite some of my friends to talk about reenactment and folk costume.
Subscribe to the channel if you want to follow me there – my channel name is Addelej (which also is my instagram handle). Click this link to get to the channel, and please comment on the videos with suggestions on what I should talk about in the podcast!
Below you will find the first two episodes of the podcast, and if you check out the channel you can also find a travel vlog (in Swedish) there.
Hello everyone! Long time, no see. Honestly, I had a very hard time for many years with my blog, with a huge amount of writers block induced by self-inflicted pressure and anxiety, which mainly was rooted in me not thinking I was good enough. In short: A Whole Lot of Performance Anxiety and a Great Deal of Imposter Syndrome. That, in combination of always having something going on – study, work or crafting wise – made me very stressed and the fun of writing a blog disappeared. In the meantime, about two years ago, I took up knitting and have almost made no historical things since then. Instead I started a second blog, a knitting blog in Swedish which is called Med Ull pĂ„ Stickorna (Wool on the Needles), where I share my knitting journey. Feel free to check it out! đ
An example of one of my latest knitting project – a test knit of the Noma Sweater
What I have done that is history related is to get myself a folk costume. I grew up in Blekinge, the smallest county in Sweden (or second smallest, depending on how you count), and it has a rich history of locally distinctive commonwear. The festive wear of these people in the mid 19th century is what then became the Blekinge Folk Costume. Or BlekingedrÀkt in Swedish.
My plan is for this blog to change it’s course a little bit. Of course still keeping to reenactment and my medieval journey when I feel like I have the want to both make things and write stuff related to it, but for now I’m so inspired by the whole folk costume thing that I feel that it is what I’ll get the most out of writing about.
But – your blogs name is Recreating History?! Yes! It is. And folk costume really ties in to that. For me, sewing and using my folk costume is basically the same thing as reenactment of any other period. I go back to written sources and extant originals to look at materials, techniques and how/when things were worn. In the beginning now I’m recreating the very best and fanciest of what a relative of mine could have worn for the finest occasions in the mid 19th century, and as my long-time goal I wan’t to make something that could be considered everyday wear of that same relative. Quite the same way as how I approach my 14th century reenactment.
In the coming months – i.e. when I feel like it – I will update this blog with posts about the different pieces and projects I have of my BlekingedrĂ€kt. In the mean time I’m sharing some photos from when my sister turned 25 and my mum and I gifted her as a birthday present her very own BlekingedrĂ€kt.
After two fantastic months on Iceland I’m now back in Sweden. The rest of the summer will be filled with a lot of work before my studies start again and I realised that I wouldn’t be able to go to any reenactment event this year because of me working full time all summer. The only weekend that I had available for reenacting was this last one, and it so happens that I was invited to an event at Glimmingehus here in southern Sweden. Happy Andrea!
The only “problem” was that it was a late 15th century event, and I had no 15th century clothes. On top of that I was on Iceland, with none of my fabrics or sewing things, so I had exactly one week to start on and finish a set of clothes for the event. I ordered my fabric when I was still on Iceland and it arrived the same day as me. Then pattern making, cutting, and sewing! It was done enough to wear at the event together with a new veil. It is completely hand sewn and I’m very happy since it turned out well. There are still some things that needs to be fixed on it, but it’s completely wearable as it is.
The event was amazing! I met both new and old friends, and we were blessed with good weather even though it was a bit too hot at times. I mostly stayed indoors to help in the kitchen, and for once it was cooler in the kitchen than outside! How often does that happen? At times I was also inside the castle, spinning while sitting in the window niches. I felt very much at home at the event and will definitely make more visits into the late 15th century. Until next time I will have to make an overdress as well, and hopefully I won’t have to stress it over just one week…
This year,one of my dearest friends – Cathrin who runs Katafalk – turned 30. For the longest time I was thinking about what I would make for her as a birthday present, since she always makes such beautiful things for me (like the painted boxes). Then I realised that I hade a project lying around, a part of a trade, that I thougt I would not only finish my part, but also embellish it. If only I had the time to finish it…
As you know, my lust for crafts has been lacking this past year, but I managed to gain some energy to actually finish the project. What was it then? It was a filet/headpiece. My part for the trade was to weave the base for a filet for Cathrin, but I did not only do that – I finished the whole piece as a gift for her.
The filet is constructed in basically the same way as my own piece, woven as the filet described in Textiles and Clothing. Check that post for more information about the weaving details, sources, and such. At Battle of Wisby 2016 I bought some belt pieces from Lorifactor that I intended for a tabletwoven silk belt, but I never got around to weave one (yet). That meant that I had some nice flowers and lady-heads to put on Cathrin’s filet, together with some garnet-beads and pearls. Fun fact – you know I am a geologist, and my favourite mineral is the garnet (group), so it was extra fitting that I could put some garnets on my gift.
Since the metal fittings are pushed through the filet and the ends bent over on the back, I didn’t want them to be bothering dear Cathrin when she was wearing the piece. Therefore I lined the back of the filet with blue, plant-dyed silk, which also covered up the stitches from when I attatchied the beads.
The finished piece came out very good in my opinion, and I think Cathrin was happy with it as well, which of course is the most important part. I delivered the gift at her 1930’s themed party, which was amazing as well!
This is Recreating History in a new suit. How do you like it?
The content will be the same in time – I’m moving all the posts from the former place here. There are still some links that go to the old place, but I hope it doesn’t bother you too much
Why did I decide to move the blog? I’ve thought about it for a while, and when my friend Mervi had her blog removed several times, and people having other troubles, at the host I had before I was even more keen to move. The final push came when I got a memory update from Facebook that it was six years ago I moved my blog the last time. Why not do it again? As far as I’ve heard, WordPress is a really nice host.
Som ni kanske har mĂ€rkt sĂ„ har andra halvan av 2016 varit en vĂ€ldigt stillsam period för mig. BĂ„de hĂ€r pĂ„ bloggen och nĂ€r det kommer till sömnad. Jag har inte gjort eller sytt nĂ„got under hela hösten utom en maskeraddrĂ€kt till Carnis Ă„rliga höstmöte. Om jag ska vara Ă€rlig sĂ„ kan jag berĂ€tta att jag inte ens packat upp mina grejer frĂ„n Battle of Wisby Ă€n, och det Ă€r snart fem mĂ„nader sedan… Jag har mĂ„tt lite sĂ„dĂ€r under hösten och har inte haft nĂ„gon energi till att varken sy eller hĂ„lla pĂ„ med nĂ„got annat hantverk och det har gjort mig ganska ledsen. Det Ă€r sĂ„klart helt okej att inte vara pĂ„ topp hela tiden – vi har alla perioder dĂ€r vi inte mĂ„r sĂ„ bra – men det kĂ€ndes konstigt att inte ens sy. Men! Nu mĂ„r jag mycket bĂ€ttre och jag ser vĂ€ldigt mycket fram emot det hĂ€r Ă„ret.
As you must have noticed, this second half of 2016 have been a very quiet period for me. Both when it came to blogging, and also when it came to sewing. I havent made anything other than a masquerade outfit for Carnis annual autumn meeting during the whole autumn. To be honest – I still havent unpacked from Battle of Wisby and that’s soon five months ago. I haven’t been feeling all that well this autumn, and I haven’t had any energy for crafting and sewing which have made me very sad. It’s of course perfectly fine to have low periods – we all do have them some times – but it felt strange to not even sew. But now it’s much better and I’m very much looking forward to this coming year!
Me and Cathrin as Disney villains at the Carnis autumn meeting/feast.
Maleficent and the Evil Queen in Snow White.Â
Det var egentligen inte förrÀn jag hÀlsade pÄ Cathrin/Katafalk  som jag fick nÄgon egentlig inspiration till att göra saker, men Ä andra sidan hann vi med att göra en vÀldans massa grejer dÄ. Under den helgen gjorde vi mönster till en 1600-talsjacka var, mönster till en 1600-talslivkjol till mig, fÀrga tyg till jacka och livkjol till oss bÄda med krapp och valnötsskal, samt göra ett möster pÄ ett empirsnörliv till mig.
It was not until I visited Cathrin/Katafalk that I got some inspiration and during that one weekend we managed to make patterns for a 17th century jacket each, a 17th century kirtle for me, dye fabric for kirtle and jackets to us both with madder and walnut hulls and also make a pattern for a pair of Regency stays for me.
Det innebÀr att det kommande Äret kommer innehÄlla massor av sömnad och annat hantverk. BÄde 1300-tal (sÄklart), 1600-tal och förhoppningsvis en uppsÀttning empirklÀder till mig. Jag kommer ocksÄ avsluta första delen pÄ mina studier genom att ta min kandidatexamen i geologi samt pÄbörja min master inom samma Àmne, samt arrangera ett event tillsammans med Carnis vilket ni antagligen kommer fÄ se mer av under Ärets gÄng.
That means that the coming year will contain lots of sewing and other crafting for me. Both 14th century (as always), some 17th century things and hopefully a set of Regency clothing for me. I will also finish the first part of my studies by writing my Bachelor’s thesis and begin the second part by starting my Master in Geology, as well as arrange an event with Carnis which you might see more about during the coming year.Â
Och till er, mina lÀsare, önskar jag er ett Är med mÄnga roliga stunder, och att de bra saker ni vÀntar pÄ ska ske. Till mig sjÀlv önskar jag ett Är med mycket hantverk och sömnad, vilket det ocksÄ ser ut att bli.
Ha ett fantastiskt Ă„r!
And for you, my readers, I wish you a year with a lot of fun moments, and that those good things that you wait for will come to you. For myself I wish that the year will contain a lot of crafting and sewing (which it will by the looks of it). Have a fantastic year!Â
Ăntligen Ă€r min HerjolfsnesutmaningsklĂ€nning fĂ€rdig! Jag har anvĂ€nt den i ofĂ€rdigt skick sedan sista helgen i maj dĂ„ vi var pĂ„ EkenĂ€s Riddarspel, men nu efter Middelaldercentret har jag tillsist tagit mig i kragen och faktiskt gjort fĂ€rdigt den helt och hĂ„llet.
Om ni inte lÀst mitt inlÀgg med den forskning jag gjorde inför sömnaden av klÀnningen sÄ gör det! Ni hittar det hÀr.
Now at last my Herjolfsnes Challenge dress is finished! I’ve been using it since the last weekend of May in an unfinished state, but now after Middelaldercentret I’ve finally got around to actually finish it completely. I’ve written a blog post about my research and thoughts prior to cutting the fabric. You can read it here!
This is from the last post where it didn’t have pocket slits yet
Photo: Christine Carnie. Here, at Middelaldercentret, the dress have pocket slits, though not visible in the photo
Jag Ă€r vĂ€ldigt glad för min klĂ€nning. Den har redan lyckats med allt den var tĂ€nkt för. Jag ville ha en klĂ€nning som lĂ€tt kunde dras över huvudet, med fickslitsar, som man kan ha ensam nĂ€r man behöver ta en tur pĂ„ toaletten pĂ„ morgonen och inte vill fippla med snörning pĂ„ en tajt klĂ€nning, eller som ett extra lager för vĂ€rme och skydd mot regn under rĂ„a dagar. Till sist ville jag ha en surcote som en lĂ€gre-stĂ„nds-persona kan ha och fortfarande ser sĂ„dĂ€r supersnygg ut. Den hĂ€r klĂ€nningen gör allt det och lite till. I am very happy with my dress! It’s already served its purpose well – I wanted a pullover dress with pocket slits, for chilly mornings when you need to go to the loo and doesn’t want to fiddle with lacing and tight dresses, for cold and rainy days to warm you, and to be able to wear as an outer layer for a lower class persona and still look fabolous! It can do all these things and more.
Vilka Àndringar har gjorts frÄn originalplanen?
De största skillnaderna frĂ„n min plan Ă€r framförallt tvĂ„ saker. Jag ville handspinna all sytrĂ„d jag skulle anvĂ€nda till klĂ€nningen, men av olika anledningar blev det inte sĂ„ – framförallt pĂ„ grund av tidsbrist. IstĂ€llet har jag kompromissat och anvĂ€nt handspunnen trĂ„d och garn till synliga sömmar. Det Ă€r alltsĂ„ de bindande sömmarna som sytts frĂ„n utsidan, den brickvĂ€vda fĂ„llen, pricksömmen/stickningarna och ögleflĂ€tan. Jag anvĂ€nde ett maskinspunnet, men vĂ€ldigt trevligt, tunt, kamgarn till att fĂ€lla sömmarna med.
What changes to my original plan has been made? The main differences from what I set out to do are two things. I wanted to spin all the sewing thread for the project, but I realised that I wouldn’t have the time. Instead I compromised, and I did so by “only” using hand spun yarn and thread for the visible seams, i.e. the binding seams which were sewn from the right side, the tabletwoven hem, the stabstitches and the fingerloop braid. Then I used a nice and thin, worsted, yarn to fell the seams.
Two rows of stab stitches along the sleeve hem and slit
Fingerloop braid along neckline
Close-up of the braid
Inside and outside of pocket slit. It’s first hemmed, then has one row of stabstitches and then the braid to reinforce it
Tablet-woven hem and felled seams
Den andra skillnaden har mest att göra med tygbrist. Jag fick skarva en av Àrmarna i höjd med armbÄgen. Det ser dock inte dumt ut, och nummer 63 har en söm pÄ ungefÀr samma stÀlle.
The second of the differences has to do with me not having enough fabric. I had to piece one of the sleeves at the height of the elbow. It doesn’t look bad though, and number 63 has a seam at about the same place.
Vad skiljer frÄn originalet?
Utöver den extra Ă€rmsömmen Ă€r det framförallt en sak som skiljer. Det kanske inte Ă€r sĂ„ uppenbart vid första anblick, men det stĂ„r ut för mig. Sömmarna som delar mitt fram- och mitt bak-kilarna verkar inte vara fĂ€llda enligt SStJ (Ă„tminstone ser det ut sĂ„ pĂ„ illustrationerna). LikasĂ„ den falska sömmen i ena sidostycket Ă€r inte heller fĂ€lld enligt SStJ. Jag har lĂ€st bĂ„da böckerna flera gĂ„nger, noggrant som bara den, men jag har Ă€ndĂ„ lyckats missa det. Om jag ska skylla pĂ„ nĂ„got sĂ„ skulle det vara att den informationen inte stĂ„r under sidorna om just det plagget utan i den allmĂ€nna sektionen om sömmar, men jag har egentligen bara missat det. Det innebĂ€r alltsĂ„ att jag har fĂ€llt alla sömmar. Ingen jĂ€tteförlust – jag Ă€r fortfarande glad. What differs from the original? Other than the additional sleeve seam there is one obvious thing that differs from the original. Or perhaps not that obvious or even that visible, but to me it stands out. The seams in the middle thats separating the front and back gores is described in WitE as not felled (at least when you look at the illustration). Likewise for the false seam in one of the side gores. I’ve read the book several times and have somehow missed that specifik feature (if I were to blame something it would be that it’s not written in the section about the garment, but I really don’t have anything to blame for me missing it). That means that I’ve felled all the seams. Not a big loss – I’m still very happy.
Utöver det Ă€r det bara ett par saker som skiljer frĂ„n originalet. Tyget Ă€r maskinvĂ€vt och har inte samma trĂ„d/cm som originalet. Jag har förlĂ€ngt min klĂ€nning, vilket jag skrev om i mitt forskningsinlĂ€gg. Sen Ă€r det sĂ€kert nĂ„gra smĂ„grejer till som inte stĂ€mmer, saker som inte skrivits med i nĂ„gon av böckerna – sĂ„nt som man bara vet om man kan studera originalen sjĂ€lv (förutsatt att det bevarats). Jag anser att jag har gjort ett vĂ€lgjort plagg som uppfyller min krav pĂ„ mig sjĂ€lv som hantverkare och reenactor. Jag tror att min klĂ€nning hade passerat utan större chock om den flyttades bak i tiden.
Other than that there’s a few things that differs from the orignal. The fabric being machine woven and not weft faced, for one, the lenghtened hem which I wrote about in the research post and some other minor things, together with those things that haven’t made themselves into any of the books about the Herjolfsnes garments. Things you would only know if you’ve examined the garment yourself. I believe that I have made a really nice garment, true to my standards as a reenactor and a craftsman, and I do think that it would pass well if I was transported back in time.
Tablet woven hem
Slutsatser
Det hĂ€r projektet har fĂ„tt mig att inse att vissa detaljer pĂ„ Herjolfsnesplaggen finns dĂ€r av fler Ă€n de uppenbara anledningarna. Ta ögleflĂ€tan som Ă€r ditsydd pĂ„ fickslitsarna som exempel. Innan jag gjorde mitt plagg hade jag antagit att den fanns dĂ€r som förstĂ€rkning. FörstĂ€rkning i form av skydd mot slitage för kanterna – ungefĂ€r som den brickvĂ€vda nederkanten – men det var visst inte sĂ„ enkelt skulle det visa sig. Jag gjorde mina fickslitsar innan jag Ă„kte till Middelaldercentret och fĂ„llade dem och förstĂ€rkte med pricksöm. Anledningen till att jag inte satte dit flĂ€torna pĂ„ en gĂ„ng var för att jag skulle göra dem pĂ„ eventet. Sen en kvĂ€ll nĂ€r jag tog av mig klĂ€nningen rĂ„kade jag dra i fickslitsen och den sprack. Panik! Eftersom slitsen Ă€r skuren mitt i panelen och tyget Ă€r hyfsat lösvĂ€vt sĂ„ var det inte tillrĂ€ckligt att fĂ„lla och pricksömma. Det Ă€r dĂ€rför ögleflĂ€tan behövs som förstĂ€rkning. Den gör det i princip omöjligt att ta sönder tyget pĂ„ samma sĂ€tt som jag gjorde! Conclusions This project have made me realise that some of the details on the Herjolfsnes garments have more than obvious reasons for being there. Like the fingerloop braid sewn to the pocket slits. Before making my garment I understood that it was there as a reinforcement, but I thought that it was mostly to protect the edges – like the tablet-woven hem – but life proved me otherwise. I made the pocketslits before going to Middelaldercentret; cutting them, hemming and reinforcing them with stab stitches. I didn’t attatch the braid because I was supposed to make it during the event. Then one night when I undressed I accidently pulled in the pocket slit, leading it to rip… Panic moment there for sure! Since the slit was cut in the middle of the panel and the fabric was a bit too loosely woven it wasn’t enough to just hem it and reinforce with stab stitches. That is why the fingerloop braid is very much needed as a reinforcement. It makes it almost impossible to break the same way as I ripped mine.
Det resulterade i att jag hastigt lagade revan och sydde pĂ„ förstĂ€rkningsflĂ€tan. Jag Ă€r inte sĂ„ ledsen egentligen – det har gett mig möjligheten att förstĂ„ varför förstĂ€rkningen finns dĂ€r och sĂ„ har jag fĂ„tt en cool lagning. Varför den Ă€r cool? För det ger mer liv till plagget.
This resulted in a mend and me hastily sewing the fingerloop braid to the slits. Actually I’m not that sad – it has given me the opportunity to see why the reinforcement would be needed and I have an awesome mend. Why is it awesome? Because it gives more life to the garment!
A tear in my not even finished dress
The mend
Som jag skrev tidigare – jag tror att den hĂ€r klĂ€nningen inte skulle vara allt för uppseendevĂ€ckande om den hamnade pĂ„ 1300-talet. Ă tminstone med den kunskap vi har om perioden nu. Jag kommer vara nöjd och glad för den hĂ€r ett lĂ„ngt tag framöver. As I wrote earlier – I think that this would pass well if I was transported back to the 14th century, at least with the knowledge we have about the period now. I will be happy with this one a long time.
Till sist vill jag bara dela med mig av Annettes fina klÀnning! Den Àr gjord efter samma mönster som min, men i ett annat (handvÀvt!) tyg. Den Àr sÄ himla fin!
And I just wanted to show you Annette’s wonderful dress too. It’s made after the same pattern as mine but in another (handwoven!) fabric. It’s so beautiful!
Look how beautiful the dress flows! It’s almost as beautiful as you, mum!
SÄ nu har jag Àntligen uppdaterat bloggen med en ny design. Jag har tÀnkt pÄ det lÀnge, men aldrig riktigt kommit mig för att ta tag i det. Till slut blev det bara av.
Vad tycker ni? Jag Àr helt klart nöjd, Àven om jag skulle kunna tÀnka mig lite smÄÀndringar i framtiden.
So now the blog have a new design! I’ve been thinking about it for a while but never got around to change it. In the end I just went for it. What do you think about it? I’m quite satisfied, but I can think of some minor things to possibly change in the future.Â
Jag mÄste sÀga att jag blir lite stressad av att veta att jag inte skrivit nÄgot hÀr pÄ ett tag, vilket föranledde detta inlÀgget dÄ. Det har sin anledning dock, och den anledningen Àr att jag inte har gjort nÄgot pÄ sistone som riktigt passar att lÀgga upp hÀr pÄ bloggen. Det innebÀr att jag inte riktigt syr pÄ nÄgot för tillfÀllet, mer Àn pÄ mitt Herjolfsnesutmaningsplagg och pÄ en jacka till en vÀn lite dÄ och dÄ. Mesta tiden spenderar jag pÄ mina studier, som vanligt, eller pÄ att ta det lugnt och pausa ifrÄn nÀmnda studier.
I must say that I feel terrible for not updating here, which is why I felt the need to write this. It has a reason though, and the reason is that I haven’t done anything that is appropriate to go on the blog. That means that I’m not really sewing anything, except for on my Herjolfsnes Challenge-garment and on a jacket for a friend. Most of the time I spend on my studies, as usual, or trying to relax from them.Â
Gilded leather and Viking silk, both bought a little while ago
Men! Det innebĂ€r inte att jag inte gör medeltidsgrejer. TvĂ€rt om faktiskt – mitt sett att vila frĂ„n studierna Ă€r oftast att göra research för reenactmentgrejer. Jag lĂ€ser massvis med artiklar och böcker, och scrollar mig igenom museums digitala databaser och manuskript för att fĂ„ inspiration. En annan sak som jag gör Ă€r att prova att göra nya medeltidsfrisyrer, vilket jag hoppas kunna dela med mig av till er pĂ„ ett eller annat sĂ€tt i framtiden…
Den hĂ€r sĂ€songen kommer jag Ă„ka pĂ„ tre medeltidsevent, som det ser ut i nulĂ€get. EkenĂ€s Riddarspel, 25-Ă„rsjubileet pĂ„ Middelaldercentret i Danmark och Battle of Wisby/Medeltidsveckan pĂ„ Gotland. Om ni ser mig dĂ€r sĂ„ vore det jĂ€ttekul om ni ville komma fram och sĂ€ga hej! Det Ă€r vĂ€ldigt trevligt att trĂ€ffa mĂ€nniskorna bakom statistiken. But! That doesn’t mean that I’m not doing medieval stuff. On the contrary – my way of relaxing from my studies is to do research for my reenactment things. I read lots of articles and books, and scroll the museum’s digital collections and manuscripts for inspiration. Another thing that I do is to try new medieval hairstyles, which I hope to share with you in one way or another soon… This season I will be going to three events. EkenĂ€s Riddarspel, the 25th anniversary of Middelaldercentret in Denmark and Battle of Wisby at Gotland. If you see me there – please come and say hi! It is very nice to meet the faces behind the statistics!
Jag har dragit en vinnare av hÀttan! Jag anvÀnde det gamla goda sÀttet att skriva deltagarnas namn pÄ lappar som jag sedan vek ihop till lika stora bitar och skakade dem. Sen fick min pojkvÀn vÀlja en lapp som jag vek upp. PÄ den lappen stod det Maria Neijman! HÀttan kommer överlÀmnas i helgen pÄ Carnis Ärsmöte.
I’ve drawn a winner of the hood in the give-away! I used the good old fashioned way of writing down the names of the participants on paper, folding the papers to equal size and shaking them up. I then asked my boyfriend to pick a piece which I unfolded to see the name of Maria Neijman there. I’ll be happy to pass it along this weekend when Carnis has our annual meeting.
Stort tack till er som deltog och gav tips pÄ vad jag kan skriva mer om!
Many thanks to those of you that participated and gave me lots of tips on what to write about in the future!
Recreating History 